The Grassway Farm

Ramblings, recipes and ruminations from an organic, grass based farm

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Classic Chicken and Dumplings

Once again I am plagerizing shamlessly from Cooks Illustrated.  My only defense is that I am a rabid fan and highly recommend that you subscribe to their monthly, or join the on-line family.  See www.cooksillustrated.com.   To me, chicken and dumplings are classic comfort food.  I plan on roasting a chicken the day before (and eating the best parts) and then using the leftovers to make the stew.   Of course I have home-made chicken stock in the freezer to draw from.  (No chicken stock in the freezer?  I highly recommend using a BIG pot (or Nesco) and make yourself several quarts of the brown gold.  Flavor aside (not said lightly), the nutritional benefits are outstanding.  (Sales pitch - we sell chicken stock packages {necks, backs, etc.}).  Don’t hesitate to call to talk about how to make stock. 

Classic Chicken and Herbed Dumplings with Aromatic Vegetables

3/1997

A touch of heavy (please use raw - this is my addition, of course) cream gives the dish a more refined look and rich flavor, but for a weeknight dinner, you may want to omit it. If you are in a hurry, you may poach boneless chicken breasts in low-sodium canned stock, then pull the breast into large pieces, and skip step 1 below.

Serves 6 to 8

Poached Chicken with Creamed Gravy and Aromatic Vegetables
1 large roasting chicken , 6 to 7 pounds, butchered according to illustrations below
1 large onion cut into large chunks (unpeeled)
2 bay leaves 
Table salt 
3 ribs celery , trimmed and cut into 1-by-1/2-inch pieces
4 carrots , peeled and cut into 1-by-1/2-inch pieces
6 boiling onions , peeled and halved
4 tablespoons unsalted butter softened, or chicken fat from the cooked chicken
6 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour 
1 teaspoon dried thyme 
2 tablespoons dry sherry or vermouth
1/4 cup heavy cream (optional)
3/4 cup frozen peas , thawed
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves  
Ground black pepper or ground white pepper
Baking Powder Dumplings
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 
1 tablespoon baking powder 
3/4 teaspoon table salt 
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves  , chives (or scallion greens), dill, and tarragon
3 tablespoons unsalted butter 
1 cup milk 

1. For the Chicken: Heat deep 11- or 12-inch skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add hacked-up chicken back, neck, and wings, and onion chunks; sauté until onion softens and chicken loses its raw color, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover, and continue to cook until chicken pieces give up most of their liquid, about 20 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high, add 6 cups hot water, chicken parts (legs, thighs, and breasts), bay leaves, and 3/4 teaspoon salt, then bring to simmer. Reduce heat; continue to simmer, partially covered, until broth is flavorful and chicken parts are just cooked through, about 20 minutes longer. Remove chicken parts and set aside. When cool enough to handle, remove meat from bones in 2- to 3-inch chunks. Strain broth, discarding chicken pieces. Skim and reserve fat from broth and set aside 4 cups of broth, reserving extra for another use.

2. Meanwhile, bring 1/2-inch water to simmer in cleaned skillet fitted with steamer basket. Add vegetables; cover and steam until just tender, about 10 minutes. Remove and set aside.

3. For the Dumplings: Mix flour, baking powder, herbs, and salt in medium bowl. Heat butter and milk to simmer and add to dry ingredients. Mix with a fork or knead by hand two to three times until mixture just comes together. Following illustrations below, form dough into desired shape; set aside.

4. Heat butter or reserved chicken fat in cleaned skillet over medium-high heat. Whisk in flour and thyme; cook, whisking constantly, until flour turns golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Continuing to whisk constantly, gradually add sherry or vermouth, then reserved 4 cups chicken stock; simmer until gravy thickens slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in optional cream and chicken and vegetables; return to simmer.

5. Lay formed dumplings on surface of chicken mixture; cover and simmer until dumplings are cooked through, about 10 minutes for strip dumplings and 15 minutes for balls and biscuit rounds. Gently stir in peas and parsley. Adjust seasonings, including generous amounts of salt and pepper. Ladle portion of meat, sauce, vegetables, and dumplings into soup plates and serve immediately.

STEP BY STEP: Cutting a Whole Chicken


1. With a sharp chef’s knife, cut through the skin around the leg where it attaches to the breast.

2. Using both hands, pop each leg out of its socket.

3. Use your chef’s knife to cut through the flesh and skin to detach each leg from the body.

4. A line of fat separates the thigh and drumstick. Cut through the joint at this point.

5. Using poultry sheers, cut down the ribs between the back and the breast to totally separate the back and wings from the breast.

6. Place a chef’s knife directly on the breast bone, then apply pressure to cut through the bone and separate the breasts.

STEP BY STEP: Dumplings


For flat noodle-like dumplings, roll dough to 1/8-inch and cut them into about 2-by-1/2-inch strips.

For biscuit-like dumplings, roll dough to 1/2-inch thick. Use a 2-inch biscuit cutter or a round drinking glass top to cut dough rounds.

For round puffy dumplings, divide dough into 18 pieces. Roll each piece of dough into a rough round.
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Spring Tonic Nettle Soup

Nettle

Urtica dioica
Nettle has dark green serrated leaves and short hairs that cause burning and blistering when touched. It grows in moist soil usually near streams and ditches. Even though it may sting when gathered without gloves, it is an excellent spring green in teas and meals, but don’t eat it uncooked. It makes a wonderful substitute for spinach in any dish and an excellent lasagna filling. Nettle is an herb worth using on a regular basis. This spring tonic is loaded with nutrition and strengthens many body systems. Nettle is a rich source of iron, calcium and folic acid, and supports the kidney and adrenals. It helps clear up anemia, skin problems, and increases breast milk. A nettle hair rinse stimulates growth and removes dandruff.The following is taken from Full Moon Feast by Jessica Prentice.  I have made this soup and it is wonderful!

Some important notes about nettles: If you’re picking wild nettles for eating, don’t touch them with your bare hands, and harvest only the top four inches of the plant.  In the kitchen use tongs or a large fork to pick them up.  You may want to remove the thick stems from the nettle tops before cooking.  Always cook nettles until they’re soggy or completely wilted before eating; a quick saute’ is not sufficient to deactivate the sting.  If you’re making nettle tea with fresh nettles, be sure to strain the nettles out, and don’t eat the leaves unless they’ve been thoroughly cooked.

2 leeks, cut into rounds (or onion or scallion in a pinch)

3 Tablespoons butter

1/4 pound stinging nettle tops (available wild - we have pick your own on the farm)

1 bouquet garni

1 quart chickens stock (because this soup is subtle, real home make stock is best)

2 eggs yolks

1/2 cup creme fraiche (we have freeze dried packets to make your own)

salt and pepper to taste

nutmet to taste

1.  Saute the leeks in the butter.  Add the stock and bring to a boil.

2.  Add the nettles (being careful not to touch them with your bare hands!!), and bouquet garni.

3.  Cover, bring to a boil, and simmer until the nettles are very soft.

4.  Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and creme fraiche.

5.  Remove the bouquet garni from the soup, turn the heat to low, and puree using an immersion blender, adding a generous pinch of salt and a grind of pepper.

6.  Take a ladleful of soup and stir it into the egg mixture.

7.  Return the egg-nettle mixture to the soup and stir gently over very low heat (do not let it boil again).

8.  Grate some fresh nutmet into the soup, taste and add more salt as necessary to make it savory and delicious.

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April 12th farm update

Things have been busy here - our cows have had over 70 babies in the last 4 weeks.  Except for one backwards one, everything has gone well.  If you can, stop at the farm to see the baby calves in their paddocks.  We have 2 paddocks right by the barn.  Each paddock has a large shelter bedded with warm straw, for those rainy days.  The paddocks are large each so that the calves can run around as needed.  Like little children, they can only sleep so much before they have to run around and play.  It’s so good to see the babies outside kicking up their heels and hopping about.  If you are lucky, you will be here when we move calves around.  Nothing like a new paddock to get the crew running with glee.

The raw milk issue continues to gain attention.  We were privilaged to speak to an Associated Press journalist from Milwaukee, who wanted to write an article about raw milk.  I know the article was picked up by several local newspapers.  Being an AP article, it could be picked up national wide.  The misinformation about the safety record of raw milk continues to frustrate.  Please go to the westonaprice.org web site and check out the “Raw Milk” site.  They have a rebuttal against the FDA powerpoint against raw milk.  Also on the wesonaprice.org web site is a PowerPoint presentation put together by Lee Dexter and Sally Fallon entitled “Raw Milk and Raw Milk Products, Safety, Health, Economic and Legal Issues”.

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Oxtail Soup (aka Jerseytail Soup)

Yes, oxtails are just what they sound like.  But in our case, it’s more like jerseytails.  Frankly, I had never cooked with them before, but several customers requested a recipe, so I decided to give them a try.  And I’m so glad I did!  Not surprisingly, the tail is full of cartlidge, which makes a flavorful broth.  It was a little bit more work, but definetely worth the effort.  I got the following recipe off the internet, but of course made a few changes.

First Day

3-4 pounds oxtails (jerseytails)

2 large carrots

2 stalks celery

1 leek (or 1 onion)

enough water to cover about 1 inch.

            Simmer all of the above 3-4 hours.  Pick out the tails to cool, strain the broth (discard the veggies - I cool and feed to the outside cats.  They LOVE it.).  Put the broth in the fridge to cool overnight so the fat can be picked off the next day.  Pick the meat off the bones and refrigerate.  I froze the bones to continue cooking them another day. 

Second Day

The next day, put 12 tablespoons lard or coconut oil in a kettle and start cooking up 1 chopped onion.  Cook about 5-10 minutes, and then add 2-3 chopped carrots and 2-3 cloves minced garlic.  Cook for 1 minute until garlic is fragrant.  Add meat that you picked off the bone yesterday and ½ bottle while wine (see note below)*.  Also add about 1 quart of the broth that you cooked the tails in.  Use more if you feel you need to.  Finally, add some chopped tomatoes.  I used 1 -14.5 oz. can whole, peeled Glen Muir tomatoes (I diced them up a bit) plus whatever tomato sauce is in the can. 

At this time also add: 1 tsp unsweetened cocoa powder, 1/8 tsp cinnamon, pinch nutmeg.  I know it sounds weird.  Just try it.

Simmer the whole pot 1 ½ to 2 hours.  Enjoy.

*White wine note.  DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.  If you make this without the wine, it will taste like any other beef stew.  The alcohol in the wine cooks off, so you don’t have to worry about woozy children.  It adds a flavor dimension that cannot be substituted.  I used a California Viognier (Voy-neeay’).  The rule of thumb with cooking with wine: if it isn’t good enough to drink by the glass, don’t cook with it.  It doesn’t have to a great wine, but it should be an okay wine.  Drink the other half of bottle with your honey by the fire. 

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Kale and Potato Gratin

from “Joy of Cooking” (Simon and Schuster, 2006).

1 large bunch kale (about 1 pound), washed well, sliced and deribbed. (The center rib of kale is not really eatable.)

4 medium Yukon Gold (or other all purpose potatoes [about 1.25 pounds])

2 small onions

2 Tablespoons butter, cut into pieces

1 teaspoon minced tarragon (go ahead and use dried)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 cups milk or half and half cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter a 2 quart shallow baking dish.

Steam kale (or gently saute) until almost tender, 8-10 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel and cut potatoes (I leave the skins on myself), and onions into 1/8-inch thick rounds.  Drain kale (if steamed) and let stand until cool enough to handle.  Press out excess water and coarsely chop.  Build up alternating layers of potatoes, onions and kale (2 layers each) in baking dish, beginning and ending with potatoes and dotting each onion layer with butter, mincer tarragon, salt and peper.  Pour milk or half and half over the top.

Cover and bake in preheated oven until potatoes are tender and almost all liquid is absorbed, 30 to 45 minutes.  Place under broiler, if desired, to brown the top.

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Meet Real Free Range Eggs

from Mother Earth News.  For the complete study, go to motherearthnews.com/eggs.

There is mounting evidence  that hens raised in natural (outside) environments produce eggs that are nutritionall superior to those of their caged peers.  Beware however, that cage free does NOT mean pasture?  According to the USDA labeling glossary, as long as hens are “allowed access to the outside”, producers can call their eggs free-range.  Oftentimes though, that only means a small opening where hens could go outside, regardless of whether or not they ever would go.  Terms such as pastured and farm raised aren’t defined at all. 

So, eggs from hens raised on pasture (versus confinement) may contain as much as:

1/3 less cholesterol

1/4 less saturated fat

2/3 more vitamin A

2 times more omega-3 fatty acids

3 times more vitamin E

7 times more beta carotene

Think of THAT next time you buy a dozen eggs.

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Get the E. Coli Off the Menu

from The Chicago Sun-times, November 14, 2007, pg 43, by Richard Laurnet - Special to the Sun Times

“The federal government wants us to swallow yet another load of crap.  But don’t worry, it’s cooked, so it’s considered safe.

Meat contaminated with the E. coli bacteria is OK to sell if - get this - it is cooked first.  The federal government has allowed American meat companies to feed the nation tainted meat with this caveat.”

“Now federal meat inspectors have disclosed a little-known fact: A U.S. Agriculture Department regulation allows processing plants to sell meat that tests positive for E. coli.  The only stipulation is such meat carry a “cook only” label, a practice that allows companies to profit from millions of pounds of bad meat.  The USDA defended the rule, saying commercial cooking kills the bacteria and renders it safe to eat.  This type of meat is usually sold as precooked hamburger, meatloaf and taco filling.”

“Consumers may never again look at such pre-cooked “convenience” products the same way.  After all, where’s the convenience in gagging, retching and diarrhea?  If this loophole isn’t closed soon consumers will consider anything the government says about food safety just a load of, well, you know.”

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Just Say Hay: Feed Cows Grass, Not Corn, to Avoid E. Coli

From The Chicago Sun-times, November 8, 2007, “Letters to the Editor”

The followin are just bits and pieces of the whole article.  I’ve tried not to take anything out of context.

“For nearly 10 years, we’ve known how to prevent E. coli contamination of our food supply.  And yet we continue to wait for an illnuess, and then reall any meat that might be contaminated.”

“The E. coli problem lies in what happens inside the cow’s stomach.  When corn replaces grass as the primary diet, it changes the bacteria inside the rumen, the “final filter” of digestion.  With a grass diet, most of the microbes never make it past the stomach acid.  But inside the corn-based bacteria lurks a man-made cuprit.  It was discovered in 1980: a new strain of a common intestinal bacterium, E. coli 0157:H7.  It causes diarrhea, abdominal cramps and even death.”

“In 1998, scientists from Cornell University and the U.S. Department of Agriculture reported that grain-based cattle diets promote the growth of this acid-resistant strain of E. coli.  They observed that changing the diet from grain to hay - the natural, dried-grass diet of cattle - for only five days before slaughter could reduce E. coli bacteria by 80%.”

“What are we to think?  Headlines about meat recalls seem commonplace.  Solutions range from irradiating meat to cooking at high temperatures.  But the easiest and least expensivbe is changing the diet from grain to hay for the final five days before a feedlot harvest.  Andy yet it is not among the options being considered by the beef industry.”

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Feeding By-products From Ethanol Industry An Attractive Option”

Snippet from The Wisconsin State Farmer, January 18, 2008

Kay’s note: Does anyone else see a parallel between the distillery dairies back in the 20’s and this?

“The roll of ethanol and biodiesel - as fuel sources and co-product feeds for the livestock industry - is growing.  With traditional feed prices on the rise, feeding byproducts from the growing ethanol industry is becoming an attractive option - assuming producers resolve the fiber and unsaturated fat challenges.”

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FDA rules on safety of meat, milk from clones

Snippets from The Wisconsin State Journal, January 18, 2008

Kay’s note:  Organic products (milk, meat, etc.) are NOT allowed to be from cloned animals.

“After years of debate, the US Food and Drug Administration officially ruled this week that meat and milk from cloned animals is safe.”

“But while one US official made the safety announcement, another asked owners of cloned animals to continue a ‘voluntary moratorium’ until market acceptance catches up with the scientific safety assessment.”

“Trade officials were reportedly critical of the FDA’s assessment as the agency prepared to release it to the public, knowing that products from clones are a tough sell to some US export markets, notably Japan and Europe.”